Connor is home this weekend from NAU and requested Clam Chowder for dinner tonight.  OK, the high today is supposed to be 87 degrees, but if my boy wants chowder, chowder it will be!

Traditionally, bacon is used to start the chowder, but I have a boatload of pancetta in my freezer, I will begin with that. Once the pancetta has rendered its fat and is crisp, most of the fat is discarded, only 1 tablespoon will be used to sear the scallops. The scallops are removed and what remains in the pan is called the “fond”. In French, fond means “base”. Fond refers to the browned and caramelized bits of meat or vegetables stuck to the bottom of a pan after sautéing. Traditional cookware is best for developing a decent fond. Non-stick coatings tend to inhibit its development. After the meat is browned, it is removed from the pan and excess fat is discarded. Generally, aromatics such as onion, garlic, or shallots are sautéed, then a liquid such as stock, alcohol, fruit juice, or even water (or as world-famous Chef Jacques Pépin calls it ” l’eau du sink “) is used to deglaze the pan and loosen the fond from the pan to become “one” with the dish. The fond is the base for a great sauce, or in this case, a great chowder. Since I mentioned Jacques Pépin, I’m adding one of my favorite pictures of the two of us at the end of this post, as a bonus.

Sherry being added to the fond, deglazing the pan

You may already know how clam juice is sold in the grocery store…in little 8-ounce bottles that cost at least $2 each. And minced clams are in little cans that are also overpriced.  So instead, go to Smart & Final, if you live in Arizona, California, or Nevada. The 28-ounce can of clams cost $3.65 and a 46-ounce can of clam juice runs only $3.39… less than you would pay for only 16 ounces at the grocery store. Even though you don’t need all 46-ounces, it’s still a bargain. I pour what I have left into muffin tins (each holds about 1/4 cup) and freeze, then pop out into freezer ziplock bags, label and freeze for the next time I’m serving fish. I’ll pull out a frozen cube and use it to deglaze the pan for the next great sauce. If you live where there is no Smart and Final, check your Costco or Sam’s Club for the best value.

Connor’s Scallop and Clam Chowder

4 ounces of pancetta or bacon, diced
12 ounces sea scallops, quartered and thoroughly dried
1 leek, white and light green parts only, chopped and well washed
1 large shallot, peeled and minced
1 fennel bulb, chopped and well washed
1 celery stalk, chopped and well washed
1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons dry Sherry, divided
1/4 cup flour
2 tablespoons thyme leaves
1 bay leaf
1/2 pound unpeeled baby potatoes or 1/2 pound unpeeled russet, cut into 1-inch cubes
28-ounce can minced clams, drained and juices reserved
4 to 5 cups additional clam juice
1 cup heavy cream
2 cups fat free half-and-half
2 cups frozen petite white corn kernels, thawed
2 tablespoons fresh dill, minced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Tabasco sauce, to taste
Worcestershire sauce, to taste

Oyster crackers

Cook the pancetta slowly in a large pot over medium heat until crisp, about 12 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to remove pancetta to a paper towel to drain. Discard all but 1 tablespoon of the rendered pancetta fat.  Season the dry scallop with salt and pepper and sear over medium-high heat on all sides. Take care to leave plenty of space between the pieces and do not attend to turn over until they release from the pan, they will release when the are browned  Remove to a plate and set aside.

searing scallops and creating fond

Add the leek, shallot, fennel, and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent, about 5-7 minutes. Remove vegetables to a bowl with a slotted spoon Turn up heat to high and add 1/4 cup of the sherry to the pan to deglaze. Continue to cook until the liquid is syrupy, return the vegetables to the pan and stir in the flour; cook over low heat, stirring for 4 minutes, to cook the raw taste out of the flour.

fennel, celery, leek, tiny potatoes, shallot, thyme and dill; mise en place; stirring in flour

Stir in the reserved clam juice drained from the clams and 4 additional cups, bring to a simmer, and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. The liquid should be the consistency of heavy cream. If it is too thick, add more clam juice to adjust the consistency. Add the thyme, bay leaf, and potatoes and simmer until potatoes are fork tender, about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, place the clams, cream, and half-in-half in a medium saucepan and simmer until the clams are cooked through, about 6 minutes.

When the potatoes are tender, add the seared scallops along with any juices that have accumulated on the plate, the clam/cream mixture and thawed corn kernels to the pot. Simmer for 3 minutes.

Stir in the remaining 3 tablespoons sherry and fresh dill. Season to taste with salt, pepper, Tabasco, and Worcestershire sauce.  Ladle into large bowls, sprinkle with pancetta pieces and serve immediately with the oyster crackers on the side.

Serves 8 to 10

Jacques Pépin and Me :)

I was at Costco the other day (what’s new?) and was shopping for the “Tucson Roommate Dinner” when I spotted a new item – a huge roll of pancetta.  It was just too gorgeous and I couldn’t resist.  Now I have to think of dishes to make with my 2 pounds! Pancetta is an Italian bacon that is cured with salt, pepper, and other spices. It is dried for about three months, but is not usually smoked. It comes from the pork belly only instead of the sides and belly of the pig, as American bacon does. It is sold in either thin slices or in a roll. Each region of Italy produces its own type of pancetta and in Corsica it is considered a regional flavor. Since I really don’t want to have pancetta for dinner every night for two weeks, I will be freezing the excess. To do so, I will cut it into 1/2-inch pieces (each about 4 ounces) wrap each tightly in plastic wrap, then in foil, place all pieces in a freezer zip-lock; label with the contents and date, and freeze.

This recipe is pork with more pork. Pork tenderloin with little bits of pancetta inserted inside. The silver skin needs to removed from the tenderloin, if you need instruction, please see the Tip Index under pages, to the left.  The sauce uses a reduced beef broth.  Be careful when reducing the broth. It seems to take a long time at first, but once it is reduced by half, the next reduction of half again goes quickly.  When reducing a liquid like this, keep a glass measuring cup next to the stove and when you think you’re getting close to the correct amount, just pour the liquid from the pan into the measuring cup.  Keep checking every couple minutes near the end so you don’t go too far. If you happen to reduce it too much, just add water to correct.

Pancetta Studded Pork Tenderloin with Red Wine-Cherry Sauce

4 cups beef broth
1  1/2 to 2 pounds pork tenderloin, silver skin removed
3  ounce piece pancetta cut into 1/4-inch pieces
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided

1/4 cup peeled and finely minced shallot
2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary
1 garlic clove, peeled and minced
3/4 cup dry red wine
1/4 cup cherry preserves or jam
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into bits

Bring the 4 cups beef broth to a boil over high heat in a medium saucepan.  Boil until broth is reduced to 3/4 cup, about 23 to 25 minutes.  Watch carefully, it will take about 15 minutes for the broth to reduce to 2 cups, and after that, it goes quickly, so check often.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

Pat pork dry with paper towels and cut 1/2-inch-deep slits at 1-inch intervals all over tenderloins, then insert 1 piece of pancetta into each slit. Sprinkle pork with salt and pepper.  Heat only 2 tablespoons of the oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over high heat until just smoking, then brown pork on all sides, about 5 minutes. Transfer meat to a small roasting pan, set aside skillet.

Roast pork in middle of oven until an instant-read thermometer inserted diagonally 2 inches into center registers 150 degrees, about 25 minutes. Remove from oven and  let stand, loosely covered with foil, 5 to 7 minutes.

Make sauce while meat stands, heat the skillet over medium-high heat, add remaining tablespoon oil and then sauté shallots and rosemary for 1 minute, add the garlic and continue to sauté until shallots are golden, another minute or two. Add red wine and deglaze pan by boiling and scraping up brown bits, until liquid is reduced by about one third.  Add reduced beef stock and cherry jam and simmer, whisking, until jam is incorporated, about 2 minutes. Add butter, 1 bit at a time, whisking until incorporated, add in any meat juices that have accumulated on the roasting pan, then remove from heat. Season with salt and pepper.

Transfer meat to a cutting board and slice on a diagonal, serve with sauce.

Serves  4

Me at 2 years old

I finally took on a task that I’ve been putting off for months… OK, not months, years!  Scanning pictures that are “pre-digital” onto my computer. See, this is what happens when your kids leave you for college – you do things! I found this picture in the stack and just couldn’t resist posting it. I am two years old here, according to my mom’s writing on the back. With an apron on! Wow, who knew? Today’s tip has to do with fresh ginger root. It is something I don’t always have on hand but not something I’m willing to go to the store for if it’s the only thing I need. So I always buy a bit bigger piece than I’ll need, I peel the extra and slice it into “coins” about 1/2-inch thick. I have a jar in my fridge the I keep the ginger coins in that is filled with Sherry. That way whenever you need fresh ginger and don’t have it in the produce drawer, just pull out a coin or two, mince it up and you’re ready to go!  When working with pork tenderloin, you must alway trim away the silver skin. Silver skin is a layer of white connective tissue or membrane that you find on pork tenderloin and a variety of other tender meats.  It is tough as rubber and needs to be removed before cooking.  It is not difficult to do; cut it off in then strips, angling a sharp paring knife against the membrane, not the meat, then slide your knife along the silver skin, pulling back tightly on it and continue to do so until the loin is clean. See picture below.

Pomegranate-Chipotle Pork Tenderloin

1 1/2 to 2 pounds pork tenderloin
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Garlic powder
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/4 cup peeled and minced shallots
1 tablespoon chopped rosemary
1 tablespoon peeled and minced ginger root
1/4 cup chicken stock
1/2 cup red wine
1/2 cup pomegranate juice
1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses or balsamic vinegar
1 chipotle pepper in adobo sauce, finely minced
1 tablespoon honey mustard
2 tablespoons heavy cream
Fresh pomegranate arils (seeds) and rosemary sprigs for garnish, if desired

tenderloin in back has been trimmed, front piece - in process

Trim silver skin from tenderloins, season well with salt, pepper, and garlic powder. Heat large skillet over medium-high heat, when hot, add oil and sear pork on all sides until evenly browned. Remove pork to a plate and set aside.

shallots, rosemary, and gingerroot added to pan

Add shallots, rosemary, ginger root, and chicken stock to hot skillet, use a spatula to stir and deglaze by loosening up the browned bits in the pan.

after chicken broth is added- pan is deglazed "scraped clean"

Once the pan is “clean” and the shallots are soften, add the wine and pomegranate juice, turn heat to high. Boil for 2 minutes, reducing the liquid. Add the pomegranate molasses or balsamic vinegar, the honey mustard, and chipotle.

about to cover pan and turn off heat

While still boiling, return pork and any juices accumulated on the plate to skillet. Cover skillet and turn of the heat. Allow pork to cook slowing in turned off pan for 15 minutes. Uncover pan and turn over tenderloins, turn heat to high and as soon as liquid begins to boil, cover pan and turn off heat again, this time for 8 minutes. Remove lid and insert and instant-read thermometer into the thickest part of the meat, the temperature should be between 150-155 degrees, if not recover and test again in 3 or 4 minutes.

Garnish, "if desired"... I desired, just forgot before I snapped the picture

Remove meat to a cutting board, tent with foil. Return sauce to a simmer over medium heat and add cream, stir until heated through. Slice meat on a diagonal and serve with sauce drizzle on top and garnish, if desired.

Serves 6

This recipe was last night’s dinner, served with sides of roasted garlic mashed potatoes and blanched asparagus and green beans (leftover crudites from the NCL Saturday class) that were heated and dressed with the same Garlic Parmesan Crema used to season the roast.  Most Sundays my dad comes over and we play cards (Spades, Hearts, Gin Rummy, and/or Pinochle before dinner, and the meals are usually standard meat/potatoes.  But honestly, you can’t beat an inexpensive beef roast on the weekend. Today is my dear friend’s, Larry Fitzgerald, birthday – he is a mere 26 years old today.  We’ve been in the kitchen together since he was 22 and he is an excellent cook and an amazing person.  Happy Birthday, Fitz!

Mustard-Herb Rubbed Roast

Sirloin tip roast, about 4 pounds
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup beef broth
1 cup red wine
8 garlic cloves, peeled and halved
1/3 cup Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon dried rosemary leaves (crushed)
1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
Queen Creek Olive Mill Garlic Parmesan Crema (if
desired)
1 large onion, peeled and sliced

Remove roast from refrigerator and allow to come to room temperature for about 45 minutes. Pat roast dry with paper towels. Generously season the roast with salt and pepper on all sides.

Heat a roasting pan set on medium-high heat until hot, then add 2 tablespoons olive oil and immediately add roast and sear on all sides until nicely browned. Remove roast to a plate, set aside. Pour beef broth in pan to deglaze, scraping up any browned bits, then stir in wine and remove from heat.

Set a wire rack in roasting pan place roast on top of rack, adding any juices that accumulated on the plate. With a paring knife cut small slits into the roast and insert the garlic clove halves into the slits. Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

In a small bowl combine Dijon, garlic powder, rosemary, thyme, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Brush roast with mustard mixture. Drizzle with the Garlic Parmesan Crema, if using.  Distribute the onion slices evenly on top of the liquids in the bottom of the pan.  Tightly cover pan with foil, to seal in the steam and juices.

Place roast, in the middle of  preheated oven and braise for 1  1/2  to 2 hours or until an instant-read thermometer registers 150 degrees when inserted into the center of the roast.  Remove from oven, set the roast on a cutting board and tent loosely with foil.  Allow to rest for 20 to 30 minutes to allow the juices to redistribute themselves evenly throughout the roast and the residual heat will bring the internal temperature up to about 155 degrees (medium).

Pour the juices (au jus) from the roasting pan into a small saucepan placed over very low heat to keep warm.  Carve roast and serve au jus alongside the sliced meat.

Serves 6 to 8